Six Weeks in Fes: Week 3-Tuesday Night

I witnessed firsthand something I’m struggling a bit to comprehend.

The oldest part of the city is COMPLETELY changed since the trash strike started. The Suq looks almost abandoned. Streets once jammed with people are mostly empty, cafes and shops are closed. We walked down a street I’ve seen at least ten times (where Dris took me to a café on my first day) and I didn’t even recognize it until we were way past it.

The meat shops closed up because of the refuse everywhere, and all the other shops closed because no one wants to go into the smelly streets. Also, according to Geraldine they are afraid of what might happen to their wares around striking workers. NOBODY is working or making a living anywhere in the narrow streets of the Suq, or at least on the major streets I saw.

Apparently, the striking trash workers haven’t been paid in anywhere from 1-5 months. According to my professor, who has friends who work in the Suq, its because the new mayor of Fes has been skimming from the municipal coffers.

Things could get very interesting if this isn’t resolved. Obviously, the trash situation will only get worse, leading to public resentment and anger, as well as halting the livelihoods of thousands.

Morocco just passed a political referendum designed to quell rising anger. Now, in Fes, at least, a new source of anger has sprung forth. Most of the reform movement was based in ending abuse of political corruption. Now what happens when that corruption comes to a head the same weekend as the vote? Couple angry workers together with the February 20^th movement (largely made up of Leftist intellectuals) and hundreds of thousands of regular citizens living among increasingly foul garbage. Throw in a police force who isn’t afraid get rough on dissenters. What happens then?

(This last part is all speculation, BTW. All that’s happened so far is garbage has piled up and shops have closed)

Its easy to get lost in the potential political implications of whats happening. I keep having to remind myself that there’s dozens, if not scores or hundreds, of people all over Fes tonight unsure if they can continue their livelihoods in the morning or even next week.