Fall 2011 Recap

Okay so Ive decided to have occasional posts in this about where I'm going and what I'm doing. For some reason its easier to keep this online than in an actual diary.

Since Morocco:
- Went to London for a night on my way back, went to the Doctor Who museum, missed the riots him summer by 48 hours (I'm a little sad. How many times can you say you've been in a city WHILE a riot is going on?)
- Traveled to Occupy Bloomington for a night in October. Interesting/fun/useful for a night, but I'm was done with the movement after that. NO long term plan, NO solutions.
- Thanksgiving in Chicago. Nothing new except the trinket town we pass through has a lot more vacant shop windows than in past years.

Other than that, been in school. Just started training for a challenge in March called the Tough Mudder. Its a 12 mile obstacle course. As part of my training, I'm trying to completely cut off carbonated beverages. Not going well. Its 10:40 and I really want to go get a Diet Crush from the vending machine. (its hard to eat healthy from college food!)

Six Weeks in Fes: Week 6 - Tuesday

I never realized until today McDonald's restaurants appear to be designed to be universal. All three times Ive gone to the McDonald's in Fes three times, and other than reading the food off the menu, there was no necessary communication. The receipt had what I ordered on it, and the total was listed on both the receipt and the cash register. I guess this makes all McDonald's international?

I'm sooooo ready to be out of here. The same routine every day is driving me a little crazy.

Six Weeks in Fes: Week 6 - Sunday

5 days left. Thats nothing right?

Its hard to tell. The past few weeks have both flown by and taken forever. A lot of people have asked me this, so I'm gonnna pu it on here. I'm going to be sad to leave Fes, but its going to be real nice to go back to Western culture where I'm used to the way things work.

Example: Theres no lines at the McDonalds here. People stand in a crowds behind the cash registers and try and be the first one there when one opens up. It gets a bit exhausting to live in a place where day in and day out, EVERYTHING (my home, school, food, transportation, social ettequitte, etc.) is different than I'm used to. Even the menu at McDonalds is different. (Here, they've got Toblerone McFlurries.) On a dumb side note, I've had to resist doing a Samuel L. Jackson impression both times I ordered a "Royale with Cheese" (Thats a Pulp Fiction reference, Mom)

Also exhausting, the call to prayer wakes me up at 5 am every morning. I haven't gotten an uninterrupted nights sleep in going on 5 weeks. Its pretty cool to hear the same sound come from minarets all over the city at almost the same time, but the things sound like a bit like tornado sirens for the first few seconds. Still haven't gotten used to it.

Lastly, all the "Na-am" propaganda put up by the government last month is still up. Even the ratty paper fliers and posters have been left up.

Six Weeks in Fes: Week 5 - Monday

Hard to believe I'll be home two weeks from today. At the same time, it definitely feels like I've been here way more than a month.

Asilah was beautiful this weekend. Looked a lot like towns in Bermuda but still felt 'Moroccan' and the beahces were beautiful. Even the second day when we went to the crowded public beach it still felt relaxing and peaceful. Ameena said going to London this weekend and being in a Western society made her feel homesick. Asilah is a bit more European (I had a Heineken with dinner) but it didn't make me feel that way at all.

Speaking of dinner, I tried octopus for the first time. I didn't know I had ordered it. It came on my paella. It was delicious.

Lastly, and sadly, Fes has gotten a LOT more hostile for the female students at ALIF. I'm not sure why, but    starting last week, complaints of verbal and physical harassment have gone way up. I've noticed a small difference my self. It certainly doesn't compare to what happened to some of my female friends, but I have had a lot more difficulty getting a taxi since last weekend. All this started right after the weekend where the U.S. and French embassies in Syria were stormed after 'inflamitory' comments by Hillary Clinton and the U.S. halted hundreds of millions of dollars of aid to Pakistan. (I don't know what she said exactly. CNN.com is REALLY slow here) I'm wondering if the two events are at all connected to what were seeing now.

Six Weeks in Fes: Week 4-Wednesday

So I've come to two conclusions. 1: I will be ready to be back in the US by August 1st (and get a Lou Malnotti's pizza as soon as I leave O'Hare.) and 2: I'm going to be a little sorry to leave Fes. Its not the cleanest or most friendly city Ive ever been to, but it has a lot of character. On the way back from the Sahara last week, we stopped in a mountain town called Ifrain. It was a very nice clean quiet town. In fact, it would have looked a bit like Steamboat Springs, Colorado if there had been Nissan Xterra's everywhere. Our first reaction was a collective relief to be in a more Western looking town, but after a half hour I realized its really boring compare to Fez. Fez is NEVER boring.

While we were in Ifrain, some girls in the group wanted to find ice cream. Eventually they discovered a place that sold European chocolate ice cream bars that they thought were delicious. Heres the thing: the bars were called Magnums, so there were three or four girls talking about how much they loved the taste of Magnums. I had a pretty good laugh at that.

Taking a train to a town on the cost this weekend called Asilah. Found a very nice cheap hostel. Beaches and restaurants!

Six Weeks in Fes: Week 3-Thursday

So apparently the trash WAS picked up by the workers, which means the strike is over. I hope they finally got paid their wages. Medina was fully open again today. Still cant believe its the same empty place I saw two days ago.

Dinner was mint tea and corn flatbread with amazing hazelnut spread from Belgium (so does that make it Belgic? Belge?) Tonight I realized that Jad (the two year old in our house) has, between his mother, grandmother, and aunts, 4-6 women who dote/mother on him when he is in the house. Poor little guy. I don't think he notices it much now (or he loves the attention), but in a few years I'm sure he will.

They aren't tough on him or anything. In fact, he is allowed to make as much noise as he wants, but theres always someone there to make sure he isn't stealing cell phones out of purses or off counters, or climbing furniture, or making sure he is eating and drinking what he's supposed to. Poor guy cant get away with anything. Well, he did draw on my homework two days ago while I was in the bathroom, so ALMOST anything, I guess.

The Belgic(?) hazelnut spread is ten times better than Nutella. I may risk the jar breaking in my suitcase just so I can bring some home.

Finally did laundry tonight!!!

*It would be BELGIAN* I'm an idiot.

Six Weeks in Fes: Week 3-Wednesday

The three day trash 'emergency' appears to be over, but I'm not sure about the strike. The trash is gone, but my brief internet research doesn't show if the workers problems have been resolved. The trash might simply pile up again in a few days.

Google "Fez Garbage Strike" and you will get only one result having to do with whats happening right now. And NO results in google news.

Six Weeks in Fes: Week 3-Tuesday Night

I witnessed firsthand something I’m struggling a bit to comprehend.

The oldest part of the city is COMPLETELY changed since the trash strike started. The Suq looks almost abandoned. Streets once jammed with people are mostly empty, cafes and shops are closed. We walked down a street I’ve seen at least ten times (where Dris took me to a café on my first day) and I didn’t even recognize it until we were way past it.

The meat shops closed up because of the refuse everywhere, and all the other shops closed because no one wants to go into the smelly streets. Also, according to Geraldine they are afraid of what might happen to their wares around striking workers. NOBODY is working or making a living anywhere in the narrow streets of the Suq, or at least on the major streets I saw.

Apparently, the striking trash workers haven’t been paid in anywhere from 1-5 months. According to my professor, who has friends who work in the Suq, its because the new mayor of Fes has been skimming from the municipal coffers.

Things could get very interesting if this isn’t resolved. Obviously, the trash situation will only get worse, leading to public resentment and anger, as well as halting the livelihoods of thousands.

Morocco just passed a political referendum designed to quell rising anger. Now, in Fes, at least, a new source of anger has sprung forth. Most of the reform movement was based in ending abuse of political corruption. Now what happens when that corruption comes to a head the same weekend as the vote? Couple angry workers together with the February 20^th movement (largely made up of Leftist intellectuals) and hundreds of thousands of regular citizens living among increasingly foul garbage. Throw in a police force who isn’t afraid get rough on dissenters. What happens then?

(This last part is all speculation, BTW. All that’s happened so far is garbage has piled up and shops have closed)

Its easy to get lost in the potential political implications of whats happening. I keep having to remind myself that there’s dozens, if not scores or hundreds, of people all over Fes tonight unsure if they can continue their livelihoods in the morning or even next week.

Six Weeks in Fes: Week 3-Tuesday

I'm tired of trying to count by days (25 left, by the way! Still feels like I just got here.)

Apparently the garbage collectors have gone on strike. From what I've heard, they haven't been paid in a month. Garbage is everywhere now, and it smells FANTASTIC. Walking home from Bab Boujalad last night, I saw shopkeeper's kids trying to get the garbage out of the way of their shops. Unfortunately, there isn't any place to put it except on the sidewalks and in front of other shops. The weathers back up to 100 degrees after a brief, incredibly pleasant, dip into the 80's.

Two good quotes from ALIF students about the garbage situation: "It looks like a scene from the apocalypse" and "If I had to collect garbage on donkeys in this heat, I'd go on strike too"

Six Weeks in Fes: Day 20(?)

Been a while. Homework has really picked up.

Didn't get to go to Volubilis last Sunday. Woke up at 2 AM with horrible food poisoning. Got over it in 24 hours, but couldn't handle a 4 hour bus ride, even for Roman ruins.

Feeling much more comfortable here in Fes now. Finally saw a political rally in the streets last week. Heard chanting one night, and saw people with signs walking toward Bab Boujloud (Blue Gate). Followed them and watched the growing crowd proceed for a few block. The pro-king activists all wear white hats and shirts that say '' ('Yes') on them. Saw two kids get onto a full fledged fight as the crowd passed. Wondering if it had to do with the rally. There were kids everywhere with flyers and posters supporting the king.

The hats, flyers, posters, and banners all over the city were created and distributed by the government. The state run TV news showed only Na-am rallies, and according to my professor (and confirmed on the internet by one article), the government pushed Imam's to preach pro referendums the last Friday before the referendum. (The King is among other things, the 'spiritual leader' of all Moroccans, a right derived from the fact that his family is descended from Mohammed)

The referendum passed on Friday, with 98.4% of the turnout voting yes.

Unfortunately, I didn't get to see any of it. I missed both witnessing the vote and my family's couscous lunch on Friday. Missing both almost made me rethink going on the trip. Almost. (Real couscous is FANTASTIC with chicken). It was an eight hour drive.

Five star hotel friday night. Pool. Buffet. Vodka.

Saturday was more driving, followed by another buffet and more swimming. Saturday night we went via camel to an oasis in the Sahara. Complete tourist trip, but it was nice. Was too tired to do anything but look at stars after dinner and go to sleep. Got up at 4:30 and trekked up the steepest tallest sand dune I have ever seen in my life. Wasn't sure I could make it all that way up in the dark, but the view was totally worth it once I finally made it up there, especially when the sun came up. We could see Algeria from that point (it was about 30 km away)

Six Weeks in Fes: Day 11

Theres times its hard to believe where I am and how good it is, and theres times its hard to believe I ever wanted to do this. I experienced both of those today. Went to a local pool/hotel (including a bar!) and spent the whole day there. There was DJ'd music and fun people. Best time I've had in a long while. They kept playing that Africa song Shakira sang (for the World Cup?) last year. Made me think about where I was, and it was the first time it really had sunk in that I was IN AFRICA, which hasn't really sunk in as much as I thought it would have. Really cool feeling.

Then I nearly got stranded at a grocery store three miles from my home, badly sunburned and running into several language barriers along the way. Not fun, but I dont wanna focus on the bad stuff.

Visiting Voubilis and Meknes tomorrow. Seeing Roman ruins for the first time in my life, except for a Roman coin passed around HIST 150 last year. I remember how cool it felt to hold that coin. Will try my best not to nerd out at the ruins tomorrow. Might have to warn everyone that I'm a history minor.

Lastly, I'm really enjoying watching soccer on TV all the time here.

Six Weeks in Fes: Day 10

Its really hard to journal when its over 100 degrees out, so these will probably just a few sentences from now on. Finally had a real traditional couscous meal for lunch today (with chicken). It was delicious. Family tried to get me to drink raw goats milk. Didn't want to, but I took a sip just to be courteous. I hate goats milk. (A little off topic, but goat cheese never EVER belongs on pizza. EVER)

After class today I hung out with some people from DePaul for a while. Never realized how good my housing location is. Two of them, Victoria and Katie, like a twenty minute walk down into the souq (market). I'm less than two blocks from both the main entrance to the market and to the Bat-Ha taxi stop.

Going to a pool @ a hotel by ALIF tomorrow with both the CePaul group and Angie, Ameena, and Katie. Going to feel great to both swim for hours and get rid of the terrible farmers tan I have right now.

Had something else to say here. Forgot it.

Six Weeks in Fes: Day 9

Still hot. Finally getting sick of eating bread. Noticed a few things during my take rides yesterday. I saw a few uniformed and armed soldiers with automatic weapons, and quite a few of policeman with nightsticks in the older section of the city. There has been excessive unrest in Rabat recently.

Personally, I'm finally feeling more comfortable here and am starting to enjoy it a whole lot more.

Six Weeks in Fes: Day 8

Been a while. Busy with schoolwork. I'm amazed how easy it is to learn the Arabic alphabet. I have had ten hours of classes and i know about half of the alphabet. Its still unbelievably hot here. Don't feel like writing all that much.

Six Weeks in Fes: Day 5 (Part 3)

Currently recovering from sugar shock. Daris's family served with dinner one of the most sugar laden things I have ever eaten in my life. I have noticed that most Moroccan meals contain more than one, if not all, of the following: salt, heat (from soup/tea/espresso), sugar, caffeine. The result is that I am drinking well over two liters of water per day just to stay hydrated.

When Daris and I went to the medina tonight to get bread for dinner, he introduced me to a few of his friends, one of whom made me repeat after him in Arabic that either he or Morocco is the greatest at. (I'm not sure. I had no idea what I was repeating) futbol

I also met Daris's wife, Ameena, and his very young son, Jad. Jad is 2(?) years old, and quite adorable. Like all two year olds, he is a singer and a percussionist. His favorite pastimes appears to be performing in front of his family while they are trying to watch sports on TV. (USA beat Jamaica, 2-0!)

Happy Father's Day, Dad!

Six Weeks in Fes: Day 5 (Part 2)

This afternoon I went for a walk in the Old City area near my host family's house. As I was walking along, a couple of motorcycles and cars went by with people chanting and waving Moroccan flags. I am assuming that they were a part of the Feb 20 movement, or are protesting the proposed constitution for some other reason. Its 7:30 PM now, and I hear what sounds like chanting in the streets from my window, but I can't see anything. It may just be the market getting a little busier now that it is a little less hot out.

Six Weeks in Fes: Day 5 (Morning)

Its twenty past noon. and so much has already happened today, I need to write it down now or I will forget some of it. We were supposed to meet our host families at the hotel this morning. Ameena, Angie, and Katie met theirs and left with no difficulties. Unfortunately, the family I was supposed to stay with had to back out at the last minute, and the replacement family suddenly had an emergency of their own. FInally Mostafa and Talik, the ALIF housing director, found a family that was willing to take me in. I made it to the house, which was right near the Blue Gate, the entrance to the medina we saw yesterday.

I had to wait for the student that had been living there to vacate the room, so Daris, Talik's uncle(?) took me to a cafe a short way into the medina. At the cafe, I sat and watched the people that went by and tried to make conversation with Daris, but his english being a bit limited and my Arabic and French next to nonexistent, it was a bit difficult I was parched by the time we got to the cafe, so I was not in the mood for espresso. The waiter smirked when I ordered jus d'orange instead of a coffee.

After the cafe, we walked through the medina a bit. Daris picked up a pair of shoes from a store, and we saw a fight between two women in the street, before returning to the house. I met the departing student for about 30 seconds, as she was in a real hurry, unfortunately ( I had a lot of questions). Then Daris helped me take my bags to my room, where I sit typing now.

Six Weeks in Fes: Day 4 (Part 2)

Almost forgot the important stuff:


The King of Morocco announced a new constitution last night will be put to a referendum July 1st. At one point during dinner last night, we noticed everyone was looking at the TV. Later we found out that the King had been on TV making a live speech. Theres supposed to be protests tomorrow, as some think he doesn't go far enough. The new constitution reduces the kings power over Parliament, but he remains in full control of the military and spiritual aspects of the government.


One other thing the new constitution will do is officially recognize the Berber language. "Oosted'd" (Professor) Mostafa, who is a Berber, seemed very happy about this.


Back to unimportant things, Mostafa is quite the comedian. He has told us quite a few jokes, and gently pokes fun at us occasionally.

Six Weeks in Fes: Day 4

Today, we visited the Old City medina, which was almost a completely different world than the Ville Nouville. Dirty narrow streets, no cars, thousands of small shops selling everything from fresh meat to bootleg CDs, and mules that WILL run you over if you don't heed their owners cries of 'Balek!' ("Get out of the way") We toured a madrassa that has been around since the 14th century, the (incredibly pungent) tannery, and a weavers factory.

Ameena picked up a new word; 'Jamilla', which means beautiful. She said this to many of the fabric shop owners, meaning to compliment the amazing patterns of clothing and scarfs. Unfortunately, she should have been saying "Hadi Jamilla"a.k.a. "That is beautiful." Simply saying 'Jamilla' means she was telling the shopkeepers 'YOU are beautiful.' Mostafa, our on-site guide/adult supervision, found her mistake hilarious.

We ate lunch at this very nice restraint with this other group studying at ALIF from DePaul. Most of them were sleep deprived, meaning they were all very giggly. All four of us finally found a Meditel Phones that had 179dh Prepay phones in stock, so now we finally have reliable communication.

We decided to try and find our way to ALIF one last time before going to get dinner. We got lost (again). We eventually found the ALIF building and a nearby cafe. Over dinner, I was interviewed via fork by Ameena, Angie, and Katie about mens opinion on makeup. My answer began with a comparison of the attractiveness of Brooklyn Decker and Jennifer Anniston, and after that the conversation went in a different direction.

As far as food goes, we have discovered most cafes offer paninis, crepes, and pizzas of various meats, as well as a vast assortment of coffee drinks and freshly squeezed juices, both of which are delicious. I finally had an espresso today, which was excellent (and very potent), and the jus'd citrus served in Fes is so 'le-di' (delicious) that we get excited about having it with breakfast before going to bed the night before.

Six Weeks in Fes: Days 1-3

Getting to Fes was quite difficult. After a seven hour plane trip from Chicago to London, and another three hour flight from London to Casablanca, I was supposed to meet up with three other students from AHA. Unfortunately, I was unable to make the One o'clock train we had planned to take, and had to go on the two o'clock train instead by myself.

After somehow managing my way through the Casablanca airport, I made it on to the train, but not after having my bag seized by a porter, whom I ended up accidentally tipping twice as much as I was supposed to. Luckily, I just happened to sit down on the train next to a man who spoke very good english and helped me greatly. (I did not know that I was going to need to transfer trains. He did.) All the while, I was trying to use my GSM phone to contact AHA or ALIF to inform them I where I was and when I would be arriving, but my phone wasn't cooperating.

After four and a half exhausting hours on the train, I made it to Fes. Next I had to take my first Petit Taxi ride, which was an adventure in itself, as traffic laws, speed limits, and seat belts are mere suggestions in Fes. After paying the driver a 20dh fare with a 200 dh banknote (the only paper money I had left on me) I finally arrived at the Hotel just as Angie, Katie, and Ameena (the other AHA students) were just leaving to go get dinner. As relieved as they were to see me, I was ten times as happy to see them.

At 3 AM that night, I got a call from my mom, who had gotten a call saying that I was still missing.

The next day we met the ALIF co-ordinator, who was relieved I had actually made it to the hotel. He took us on a tour of the newest part of the city, and showed us the ALIF building where we will be taking classes. After eating the traditional friday lunch of Couscous with chicken, carrots, and raisins, we went back to the hotel and had our first lessons in Arabic, as well as a basic lesson of French phrases. For dinner, we walked down Hassan II boulevard and back, looking for a restaurant whose customer base wasn't solely older men drinking coffee. Unable to find one, we went back to the hotel, where we ate dinner. This was the first meal I ordered with no english or miming. (Panini au poulet, Cafe a alit, and Sidi Ali a.k.a. bottled water) Ameena attempted to feed stray cats (which are EVERYWHERE) her chicken and got a kiss on the cheek from a young boy for 3dh. Katie and Angie caused a minor disturbance when they saw a cockroach on the ground.

Tomorrow, we are going on a tour of the medina in the old part of the city, where I will be living after I actually meet my host family.